crossing the rock bridge to the other side

Snuggled up next to Ashlynn and Adelaide all night kept me warm and cozy up on the plateau.  We all woke bright and early with a hunger in our bellies.  Our entire crew hiked to the dining area and ordered fresh eggs with vegetables, hot coffee (loads of it for Justin and I) and tea (for Megan and Bella).  We had the entire day ahead of us with three small children and absolutely no desire to complete any major hiking adventures.  We were told the baboons weren't up on the plateau because all the farmers in the valley were harvesting their crops. So that was out. We really wanted to see the baboons.  We attempted to get Ashlynn a nap and when that completely failed we asked our guide to show us the way to the connecting plateau for a short hike.

the rock bridge connecting one side of the plateau from the next

the plateau we hiked to from the view point of Hudad before we started

We all stood looking out to the other side, as he explained that there was a small path among the rocks on the rock bridge.  We didn't believe him until we saw a group of villagers and their donkeys traverse the rock bridge using what looked like ancient stairs that had been worn into the rocks.  After seeing the villagers do it, we decided we could too!

Our guide helped Addie across, Justin held Bella (there was a lot of deep breathing from my husband), I had Ashlynn strapped to my back and Megan helped carry all our water bottles and snacks (a serious undertaking). Poor Megan was wondering how she got into this terrible mess with us in Africa!  Especially after the trek the day before.  I nearly gave my sister and husband a heart attack when I stopped on the rock bridge to take a few pictures-not the best call on my part.  Having Ash with me gave me more confidence in my steps.  I knew I had to be steady for my sweet girl. There was never a moment of panic for me.

my lapse of judgement photo while on the rock bridge

the face says it all!

 After reaching the other side we looked back at Lalibela Hudad. The lodge looks majestic on the plateau.  The views from other plateau were spectacular as well.

View of Lalibela Hudad from the other plateau

Amazingly, this plateau holds an even higher plateau where an entire sprawling village calls home.  As we hiked around we watched swarms of villages descend the plateau above us, some running, barefoot, women carrying their children and immense loads on their backs.  Our guide explained that there was a funeral today further down the mountain and the villagers were descending to attend.  It was the speed of their descent that shocked us.  These people go up and down these plateaus every day.  It's was absolutely mind blowing.

Villagers running and hiking down the mountain.  They started at the top of plateau you see in the background.

I felt like a complete wanker in my tennis shoes and sunglasses.  Seriously. We looked like aliens up there. 

The children that live in these villages high on the mountains aren't allowed to attend primary school until they are nine or ten years old because they have to be strong enough to go down the mountain every morning and then back up every afternoon!  Unbelievable.  The only school is at the very bottom, in Lalibela, where we started our trek the previous day.  The good news is that our guide explained that the same Ethiopian man who built Hudad has plans in the works with the local government to start building a school on the plateau so the young children in these villages can attend school at a younger age.  Amazing!

Addie has no fear. She trekked around with our guide all day

We watched herds of goats, sheep and donkeys pass us as well as men, women and children.  I snapped a few shots of the birds and the landscape.  It was a lovely place to explore.  It was wonderful to have Megan on this adventure with us.  Definitely once in a lifetime!

the sunset on the plateau

One thing I learned about myself after spending two nights on the top of a plateau, is that I am not afraid of heights.  I am not fond of seeing my children close to the edge of a cliff but I do not mind being there myself. On the first evening at Hudad, we kept the girls up a little late so we could all experience the spectacular view of the sunset.

Our guide walked us down to the edge of the plateau and Justin, Addie and Bella found a precarious rock overhang they decided to camp out on for the sunset event.  Megan was less comfortable by the edge and I didn't trust Ashlynn anywhere near the edge (seriously, having a feisty independent toddler on the plateau was scary), so the three of us sat a bit further back and tried to entertain Ashlynn and keep her from literally running to the edge of the cliff.  The dusk light that blanketed the plateau that evening was a dream come true.  I was itching to take some lovely pictures on this trip.  I attempted to multi-task by saving my youngest daughter's life over and over, AND photographing everything I could.

Hudad at the top

Once we all sat down and plowed through a hot meal and then realized that we actually made it to the top (I had my doubts), we started to explore the plateau.  Lalibela Hudad is an eco lodge on the top of a plateau.  The website describes the lodge as being "luxury".  I completely disagree.

The dining and kitchen area of Hudad

 There is nothing luxurious about this lodge.  There is no electricity, no running water, no indoor plumbing.  The toilet is a hole in the ground in a bush 30 feet from your dark freezing cold room. The staff would bring a bowl of hot water to your room for a bath if you wanted (we didn't want-it was so damn freezing up there).  All the cooking is done by Ethiopian women in a stone kitchen by open fire. The second night for an Ethiopian buffet fresh injera was made and a goat and two chickens were slaughtered.  The girls and I watched as the women cornered the chickens under the table and then grabbed them by their necks as they skwaked.  Surely, these chickens knew their fate.  The goat was carried down from a higher plateau on a local tribe woman on her back. I can honestly say, it was the best Ethiopian food I've tasted.  It may not be luxury, but Hudad is the most authentic Ethiopian experience I've ever had.  Once I came to terms with the fact that I was essentially camping at the top of a mountain with my family, I loved it!

beautiful fresh ingredients

our dinner on night two

how in the world do you control the temp on this thing?

Here are some photos of the plateau and the lodge.

our room.  Inside were two beds and a bench on top of a dirt covered stone floor.  We were given candles for dark.  Luckily the beds were comfy and piled high with heavy warm blankets.  

Lalibela Hudad-the trek up

After a short 45 minute flight from Addis, we landed in Lalibela, Ethiopia which is north of Addis in the high lands.  There are mountains and plateaus in every view.  We took an uncomfortably crowded bus ride from the airport into the city (is there any other type of bus ride in the third world?).  We hopped off the bus, collected our luggage and met our guide along with three men with mules.

Let me backtrack by saying that a few weeks prior, Justin stumbled upon a website for Lalibela Hudad and instantly fell in love with the rugged plateau topped eco-lodge.  I agreed that it was a must see.  A once in a lifetime experience.  The 2.5 hour hike up the mountain to the plateau would be tough for the kids but for the most part we brushed it off as just part of the adventure.  We immediately called and booked two nights at Hudad.  I worried a bit about the travel but Justin seemed pretty confident that we could handle whatever we were faced with on this trip.

Now as we stood in the city looking up at the plateaus around us, watching the men try to tie our enormous suitcase and Ashlynn's pack-n-play to a mule; I became a tad nervous for the trek that awaited us.  Addie and Bella mounted mules.  Megan, Justin, and I (with Ashlynn on my back) sucked down some water and started walking, then climbing and hiking.  The city was behind us, we were in the mountains and I was already sucking wind.  Bella ended up being too small to hold onto a mule by herself so Megan rode with her.  About half way up, Ashlynn and I mounted the other mule and Addie decided to hike with Justin.

It took us three and a half hours to hike the mountain and reach the plateau.  It was the hardest hike I've ever done and I completed half of it on the back of a mule.  Justin and Addie were the real hiking heroes.  The last part of the hike is an uphill climb and they did it entirely by foot.  Justin was cramping towards the end and Addie was pale and exhausted.  All of us were in need of food and water.  The trek up to Lalibela Hudad was definitely an adventure.  Definitely a trek.

One of the guides came to Addie's rescue for the last bit of the hike.  She was beyond tired and pale having hiked a large portion of the toughest part of the hike.